Bad Behavior Good dog is running a New Years Special: With the purchase of 3 sessions or more you get the sessions for just $30. That means you'd get 3 sessions for the price of 2!
208-340-2824
Friday, December 31, 2010
Sunday, December 5, 2010
K9 Good Citizen
I don't often see dogs out and about with there owners any more. Going out in public and greeting people is how your dog stays social and friendly, and also provides him with physical and mental stimulation. Owners often opt to leave their dogs at home rather than have them go along because it can be challenging to be training while you're out running errands.
Most owners don't even know about the Canine Good Citizen test through the AKC. It is a list of test a certified trainer puts your dog through and if he passes your pooch will be a certified good citizen. It can be very rewarding to work hard toward a goal and accomplish it. The following are the areas your dog will be tested on. I want to encourage all owners to start practicing, and when your dog is ready find a trainer in your area qualified to give the test.
It will be good for you, your dog, and your relationship!
AKC’s Canine Good Citizen® (CGC) Program
Training/Testing: CGC Test Items
Before taking the Canine Good Citizen test, owners will sign the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge. We believe that responsible dog ownership is a key part of the CGC concept and by signing the pledge, owners agree to take care of their dog's health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others.
After signing the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge, owners and their dogs are ready to take the CGC Test. Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test include:
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.
Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.
Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.
Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.
Test 9: Reaction to distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.
Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").
Equipment
All tests must be performed on leash. For collars, dogs should wear well-fitting buckle or slip collars made of leather, fabric, or chain. Special training collars such as pinch collars, head halters, and electronic collars are not permitted in the CGC test.
As of November 4, 2010, body harnesses may be used in the CGC test. The evaluator should check to make sure the harness is not of a type that completely restricts the dog's movement such that it could not pull or jump up if it tried.
We recognize that special training collars such as head collars and no-jump harnesses may be very useful tools for beginning dog trainers, however, we feel that dogs are ready to take the CGC test at the point at which they are transitioned to equipment that allows the evaluator to see that the dog has been trained.
The evaluator supplies a 20-foot lead for the test. The owner/handler should bring the dog's brush or comb to the test.
Encouragement
Owners/handlers may use praise and encouragement throughout the test. The owner may pet the dog between exercises. Food and treats are not permitted during testing, nor is the use of toys, squeaky toys, etc. to get the dog to do something. We recognize that food and toys may provide valuable reinforcement or encouragement during the training process but these items should not be used during the test.
Failures – Dismissals
Any dog that eliminates during testing must be marked failed. The only exception to this rule is that elimination is allowable in test Item 10, but only when test Item 10 is held outdoors.
Any dog that growls, snaps, bites, attacks, or attempts to attack a person or another dog is not a good citizen and must be dismissed from the test.
Training/Testing: CGC Test Items
Before taking the Canine Good Citizen test, owners will sign the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge. We believe that responsible dog ownership is a key part of the CGC concept and by signing the pledge, owners agree to take care of their dog's health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others.
After signing the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge, owners and their dogs are ready to take the CGC Test. Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test include:
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.
Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.
Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.
Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.
Test 9: Reaction to distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.
Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").
Equipment
All tests must be performed on leash. For collars, dogs should wear well-fitting buckle or slip collars made of leather, fabric, or chain. Special training collars such as pinch collars, head halters, and electronic collars are not permitted in the CGC test.
As of November 4, 2010, body harnesses may be used in the CGC test. The evaluator should check to make sure the harness is not of a type that completely restricts the dog's movement such that it could not pull or jump up if it tried.
We recognize that special training collars such as head collars and no-jump harnesses may be very useful tools for beginning dog trainers, however, we feel that dogs are ready to take the CGC test at the point at which they are transitioned to equipment that allows the evaluator to see that the dog has been trained.
The evaluator supplies a 20-foot lead for the test. The owner/handler should bring the dog's brush or comb to the test.
Encouragement
Owners/handlers may use praise and encouragement throughout the test. The owner may pet the dog between exercises. Food and treats are not permitted during testing, nor is the use of toys, squeaky toys, etc. to get the dog to do something. We recognize that food and toys may provide valuable reinforcement or encouragement during the training process but these items should not be used during the test.
Failures – Dismissals
Any dog that eliminates during testing must be marked failed. The only exception to this rule is that elimination is allowable in test Item 10, but only when test Item 10 is held outdoors.
Any dog that growls, snaps, bites, attacks, or attempts to attack a person or another dog is not a good citizen and must be dismissed from the test.
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Common Mistakes (worth reposting)
Top 5 Mistakes Dog Owners Make
Bad Behavior/Good Dog
208-378-8205 208-340-2824
http://badbehaviorgooddog.blogspot.com
1. Not enough exercise
Dogs need exercise every day, mental and physical. Without it they cannot be the animal they were born to be. Many owners make the mistake of thinking that if they have a “big backyard” that should be good enough and they don’t need to walk their dog every day. I call this the big back yard myth. A yard size means nothing to a dog without the pack leader (you are the pack leader) there to initiate the exercise. Dogs need different amounts of exercise depending on the dog’s energy level. A medium energy level dog needs a minimum of 45 minutes of structured exercise a day. High energy dogs need even more.
2. Thinking of dogs as humans
As much as we want our dogs to be our babies, they are not humans. They have different needs than people do and if we don’t acknowledge them being dogs we are selfishly depriving them of the primal things they need to be healthy and happy.
3. Giving affection at the wrong time
Most dogs do not lack for affection. The problem is, while dogs like affection, too much at the wrong time can actually hurt them! Has your dog ever been afraid of a noise or person and you say something like “It’s okay baby, they won’t hurt you.” ? While owners have the very best of intentions they are unknowingly telling their dog to be afraid! Affection to a dog means ‘good’, ‘right’. If you pet your dog when they are scared you are saying “Good dog, that’s right, be afraid.”
4. Not having a good feeding routine
Dogs’ bodies are set up to eat at specific times. It is good for their digestive systems and their minds to eat at certain times, rather than having food in the bowl 24/7. Dogs should be hungry when they eat.
5. Projecting the wrong energy to your dog
Often when our dogs get excited and bark we shout at them. This to them is also excitement. They don’t hear your words; they hear your excited energy and it simply feeds their excitement.
For a personal in-home consultation with you and your dog, call Julie at 340-2824.
Bad Behavior/Good Dog
208-378-8205 208-340-2824
http://badbehaviorgooddog.blogspot.com
1. Not enough exercise
Dogs need exercise every day, mental and physical. Without it they cannot be the animal they were born to be. Many owners make the mistake of thinking that if they have a “big backyard” that should be good enough and they don’t need to walk their dog every day. I call this the big back yard myth. A yard size means nothing to a dog without the pack leader (you are the pack leader) there to initiate the exercise. Dogs need different amounts of exercise depending on the dog’s energy level. A medium energy level dog needs a minimum of 45 minutes of structured exercise a day. High energy dogs need even more.
2. Thinking of dogs as humans
As much as we want our dogs to be our babies, they are not humans. They have different needs than people do and if we don’t acknowledge them being dogs we are selfishly depriving them of the primal things they need to be healthy and happy.
3. Giving affection at the wrong time
Most dogs do not lack for affection. The problem is, while dogs like affection, too much at the wrong time can actually hurt them! Has your dog ever been afraid of a noise or person and you say something like “It’s okay baby, they won’t hurt you.” ? While owners have the very best of intentions they are unknowingly telling their dog to be afraid! Affection to a dog means ‘good’, ‘right’. If you pet your dog when they are scared you are saying “Good dog, that’s right, be afraid.”
4. Not having a good feeding routine
Dogs’ bodies are set up to eat at specific times. It is good for their digestive systems and their minds to eat at certain times, rather than having food in the bowl 24/7. Dogs should be hungry when they eat.
5. Projecting the wrong energy to your dog
Often when our dogs get excited and bark we shout at them. This to them is also excitement. They don’t hear your words; they hear your excited energy and it simply feeds their excitement.
For a personal in-home consultation with you and your dog, call Julie at 340-2824.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Dogs, Dogs, and more Dogs.
Every Sunday on my facebook page (see link right) I feature a dog from a local rescue who needs a home. This is the very last day of October which is official Adopt a Shelter Pet Month, and to celebrate I will be sharing some of the wonderful dogs in shelters all over Idaho. Please pass this along and lets see if we can't get some of them adopted! Click on each link to meet an amazing dog who needs your help!
http://www.adoptapet.com/cgi-bin/public/petsearch.cgi/pet_details?pet_id=4539117
http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/album.php?aid=297518&id=191869176188
http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=451841367219&set=a.121843677219.100397.120589807219
http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=165646040118329&set=a.101543366528597.3626.100000188025768&pid=607730&id=100000188025768
http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=171500059532927&set=a.101543366528597.3626.100000188025768&pid=650509&id=100000188025768
http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=492224401188&set=a.492224391188.299411.191869176188
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Dog food: What pet owners need to know
Have you ever really thought about what you are feeding your dog? Do you trust that because there is a healthy happy looking pooch on the bag that it is providing your dog with what he needs to live a long healthy life? Did you know corn is actually very unhealthy for dogs?
When it comes to dog food, not all foods are created equal. Not feeding your pet a healthy diet can result in allergies, joint problems, heart problems, teeth problems, not to mention aging quicker and not looking or feeling as well as they should.
Here is a great sight to rate your dogs food with. Check the list and see if your food is on it. If you feed Rover anything less than a b+ it's time to switch foods.
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Walk The Walk
Me walking my two dogs, and my two foster dogs. Once you have the right frame of mind you can walk a number of dogs and still maintain control.
Walking your dog correctly is so important. It sets up the base of your relationship. Do you have control of your dog on the walk, or does your dog walk you? Even if you have more than one dog you need to be able to walk with confidence and know that your dogs respect you as a stable, reliable leader.
I will often go to a clients home and ask "how much walk time does your dog get?" But I really don't need to ask. I can tell by watching. If the person is being drug by their dog I know they don't get out much. It just isn't enjoyable to walk a dog who pulls and tugs and so most people quit walking rather than fixing the problem.
One of the best ways to stop pulling is to simply stop walking as soon as the dog pulls. It makes for a slow walk, but doesn't take long to get through to the dog that they go no where if they tug. Another thing to do it switch direction as soon as they pull. They soon learn they can't anticipate where they are going so they have to be tuned into you. What you do not want to do is pull and yank on the leash. If you are frustrated your dog won
't understand what you want, and remember, no matter what it is, pulling begets pulling. If you are keeping a tight tense leash you are unknowingly causing your dog to react by pulling back.Remember: It is really about the mind set, you need to feel like the leader so your dog feels safe to follow. And don't give up. Not walking is not an option!
My daughter walking our 70lbs dog, proving it isn't size or strength that make a good leader, it's knowledge and confidence.
*Take the poll on the right to see how you and your pooch compare.
Saturday, October 2, 2010
How Early Is Too Early (puppy advice)
I had a fun day today working with Boise Bully Breed Rescue at a local Petco to raise awareness and educate the public on all things dogs. One thing that was troubling to me, however, was the number of people I saw with VERY young puppies in the store. I saw a handful of well-intentioned new pet owners with little tiny pups under 8 weeks of age. This is concerning on two very serious levels.
The first, and simplest, is that puppies so young have not had their second round of shots and are therefore very susceptible to Parvo. Parvo is a HIGHLY contagious disease that affects almost exclusively puppies, but anyone or anything can carry it. It can be on your shoes, your ten year old dog, a grocery cart and many other places. It can be deadly, is always painful, and is expensive to treat. It is just not safe taking a puppy out before they have had their second round of shots. Ask anyone who has dealt with Parvo...it is very scary and you wouldn't wish it on your worst enemy.
The second, and this is what bothers me the most, is that every person I spoke to said they got their puppy at around 4-5 weeks of age from a breeder. PLEASE, please, believe me, that any breeder willing to sell you a dog before 8 weeks of age is not a person you should get a dog from. Do not walk, RUN if someone ever offers you a pup that young. No reputable breeder who knows what they are doing would ever give a pup away so young. Most of the time there are behavior issues down the road.
Why? Because the mother provides nourishment until around 4 weeks of age, then she begins to ween the pups...but her job is far from over. One person today told me their breeder told them the mother stopped nursing at 4 weeks so that's why she was selling them so early. That is a huge red flag that the "breeder" knows little to nothing about a dog's development process.
In the process of weening her pups the mom teaches them boundaries that they just don't learn fully any other way. Between 6-8 weeks they learn bite control and body language from their mother and litter mates. Let me be clear... THE MOTHER AND LITTER MATES ARE THE ONLY ONES WHO CAN TEACH A DOG THIS THE WAY NATURE INTENDED. Yes, you can do some of it with another dog or yourself, but you will NEVER be able to replace those crucial weeks fully.
I personally prefer to get my dogs through a shelter or rescue, but if you do go through a breeder make sure they meet not most, but EVERY single one of these criteria.
Reputable breeders ALWAYS:
- give their pups their first/and usually second round of shots
- allow you to meet both parents and ask questions
- ask you questions about how you'll raise the pup and where it will live (some will want to do a home inspection...that is good!)
- provide you with proof of medical exam and papers on bloodlines
- will not let you take the pup before 8 weeks, preferably 10 weeks
- have already started the puppies in socialization and potty training
- make you sign an adoption contract
Also, NO--let me repeat, NO reputable breeder EVER sells their dogs to a pet store. And yes, pet stores will lie to you about where their cute little pups come from. Buying a dog from a pet store is one of the cruelest things you can ever do because it guarantees that dogs will continue to suffer in puppy mills.
This is a hard and harsh reality. And if you have made the mistake of adopting a pup too young, don't panic. You will likely have some problems that could have been avoided, but it doesn't mean you can't love and have a happy life with your dog. It does, however, mean that now that you know differently, it is up to you and all of us to teach others.
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