Teach Through Play

Who says training has to be strict and rigid? One of my favorite ways to train a dog is through play! It is fun for you, your dog, and your relationship. All you really need is some imagination and patience.
This woman is teaching her
dog to control his prey drive
with a flirt stick.
Does your dog have trouble respecting your boundaries? Watching you eat or barging through the door ahead of you knocking you over? A fun way to work on this is to pick your dogs favorite toy and play with it with him. Toss it, drag it, kick it... whatever you two like to do with the toy, then after a few minutes of play stop the game and set the toy down on the floor. When your dog goes to get the toy assertively block him and say "eht" or "wait" or any short sound you want. Claim the toy as yours while it's on the floor. Once your dog is no longer trying to get at it and has relaxed he is respecting the boundary you set with the toy. Then you can initiate the game again and allow him to come back and play with it. You have just taught your dog in a fun way that he doesn't actually own anything. The toys are yours and he gets to play with them when you say. Practice doing it in this fun way and when you go to set a boundary at the dinner table or door he'll be much more attentive to your voice.

Do you have a dog with a strong prey drive? One of the best ways I've found for controlling prey drive is to encourage it at the right time. Use a flirt stick (long stick with a string on it and toy attached to the end) to play chase games. I like to hold the flirt stick with the "prey" lying on the ground. At first you can leash the dog to prevent them from immediately going after the toy. I make the dog sit and wait while I start to move the toy with the flirt stick. When I say "get it" the dog can chase and try to grab the toy. I make them keep up a nice good chase but eventually let them catch the toy. Then, after they have played with it for a few minutes I have them drop it and we play again. Now my dog is satisfying his instinct in a safe controlled way and learning to control his drive until I give permission. That way next time we see a cat and I tell him to "leave it" he already has learned through play to not give in to the urge to chase when I say not to.

Need a place where your dog can go and sit while the house is busy so he's not under foot? Teach him "place". Get a mat or an old towel, even a carpet sample and place it some where in the house. Load up your treat bag with something really good like hot dogs. Call your dog over to just a foot or two away from the mat. Say "place" in a fun excited way and hurry over to the mat pointing so your dog knows where to go. When the dog is on it give him the treat. Then call him off and immediately do it again. Play several times in a row making it fun and a rush to get to the mat. Before long your pooch will be running with anticipation when you say "place" to his mat. At that point you can add in the stay command having him stay on for very shorts spells, slowly increasing the time as you go. Now you have a dog who loves to run to his mat when you need him to and can stay on.

None of these games will instantly happen. It takes time and patience to get the results you want, but the great part about play training is that you are both having fun while you are teaching a positive behavior and you are bonding as a team! And with a little imagination you can come up with dozens of fun things to play that will also teach your dog to be a respectful and balanced dog. Get creative and have some fun!

Here is a letter from a client I worked with recently. They have a year old Springer Spaniel that they adopted through Wagg'n Tails Rescue. (dog in photo is not theirs) Good job Hartman family! I love getting feed back from my clients and keep up the great work, and thank you for thinking rescue first!


Hi Julie,

I just had to let you know the suggestions you gave us yesterday are working GREAT! There was absolutely no growling or snarling this morning from Durango. In fact after working with you yesterday he seems more relax(calm might be a better word). Company came over about 4pm yesterday. He barked I gave him the sit and "eht" sound He didn't jump on anyone nor did he piddle on the floor! Thank you so much for seeing us and helping us! You are truly amazing!

This morning breakfast for Durango went off without a growl or grumble. He sat and waited nicely. After three or four bites I stepped in without having an issue. Our home is a much happier place for all of us!

Thank you again!
Marilyn

Get Social!

One of the biggest problems American dogs have is a lack of socialization. It isn't hard to figure out why. My dad tells a story that he always knew where to find his mom after he got home from school by looking for their Boxer. What ever porch the boxer was under he knew he'd find his mom in that house having tea with that neighbor.

In this day of busy schedules, 2 family incomes and garage door openers we, and by default, our dogs don't get out much to greet people. Most of the time we just wave to a neighbor as our car slides into the garage. Think about when the last time your dog went with you somewhere and got to meet someone they didn't know. Even when we walk our dogs we make a circle around the block then back inside. Our dogs see the inside of our houses and the fence in the back yard. As a result, they don't know how to greet strangers.

Some dogs are so happy when they finally meet someone new they trample all over them, others become fearful and hide. Some even get aggressive and assume danger. To fix this problem we need to regress a few decades. Think about your grandpas farm and how the old hound dog went to town 3 times a week with his master. Think back to the times when it was not the least uncommon to see a scruffy mutt waiting outside the hardware store while his owner was shopping.

Fences are a good thing for dogs to keep them safe, but don't let your fence and home become a prison. Introduce your dog from an early age to all the kids on the block. Take them with you to the bank and to pick the kids up from school. Let your dog see that strangers are no big deal. We need to make our dogs not just part of our families, but part of our lives.

Have fun with them and get social!

You Can Teach An Old Dog New Tricks!

NEW YEARS SPECIAL!




Bad Behavior/
Good Dog

Start the New Year off with a well trained pooch! Bad Behavior Good Dog is offering a special package deal. Schedule 3 or more sessions and you get each session at just $30.00. That means you’d get 3 in-home training sessions specific to your dog and your busy schedule for the price of just 2!
(packages must be paid for at initial session)

What you’ll get:
• An evaluation of your dog
• Tips a training that work with your schedule
• The tools you need to get the behavior you want from your pooch
• Lessons in dog behavior and psychology
• Free phone consultations for trouble shooting in between sessions
• AN AMAZING DOG!

Call Julie Anderson 208-340-2824 to schedule

NEW YEAR SPECIAL!

Bad Behavior Good dog is running a New Years Special: With the purchase of 3 sessions or more you get the sessions for just $30. That means you'd get 3 sessions for the price of 2!

208-340-2824

K9 Good Citizen

I don't often see dogs out and about with there owners any more. Going out in public and greeting people is how your dog stays social and friendly, and also provides him with physical and mental stimulation. Owners often opt to leave their dogs at home rather than have them go along because it can be challenging to be training while you're out running errands.

Most owners don't even know about the Canine Good Citizen test through the AKC. It is a list of test a certified trainer puts your dog through and if he passes your pooch will be a certified good citizen. It can be very rewarding to work hard toward a goal and accomplish it. The following are the areas your dog will be tested on. I want to encourage all owners to start practicing, and when your dog is ready find a trainer in your area qualified to give the test.

It will be good for you, your dog, and your relationship!

AKC’s Canine Good Citizen® (CGC) Program
Training/Testing: CGC Test Items
Before taking the Canine Good Citizen test, owners will sign the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge. We believe that responsible dog ownership is a key part of the CGC concept and by signing the pledge, owners agree to take care of their dog's health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others.

After signing the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge, owners and their dogs are ready to take the CGC Test. Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test include:

Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.

Test 2: Sitting politely for petting

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.

Test 3: Appearance and grooming

This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.

Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)

This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.

Test 5: Walking through a crowd

This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.

Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place

This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.

Test 7: Coming when called

This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.

Test 8: Reaction to another dog

This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.

Test 9: Reaction to distraction

This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.

Test 10: Supervised separation

This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").

Equipment

All tests must be performed on leash. For collars, dogs should wear well-fitting buckle or slip collars made of leather, fabric, or chain. Special training collars such as pinch collars, head halters, and electronic collars are not permitted in the CGC test.

As of November 4, 2010, body harnesses may be used in the CGC test. The evaluator should check to make sure the harness is not of a type that completely restricts the dog's movement such that it could not pull or jump up if it tried.

We recognize that special training collars such as head collars and no-jump harnesses may be very useful tools for beginning dog trainers, however, we feel that dogs are ready to take the CGC test at the point at which they are transitioned to equipment that allows the evaluator to see that the dog has been trained.

The evaluator supplies a 20-foot lead for the test. The owner/handler should bring the dog's brush or comb to the test.

Encouragement

Owners/handlers may use praise and encouragement throughout the test. The owner may pet the dog between exercises. Food and treats are not permitted during testing, nor is the use of toys, squeaky toys, etc. to get the dog to do something. We recognize that food and toys may provide valuable reinforcement or encouragement during the training process but these items should not be used during the test.
Failures – Dismissals

Any dog that eliminates during testing must be marked failed. The only exception to this rule is that elimination is allowable in test Item 10, but only when test Item 10 is held outdoors.

Any dog that growls, snaps, bites, attacks, or attempts to attack a person or another dog is not a good citizen and must be dismissed from the test.

Common Mistakes (worth reposting)

Top 5 Mistakes Dog Owners Make
Bad Behavior/Good Dog
208-378-8205 208-340-2824
http://badbehaviorgooddog.blogspot.com



1. Not enough exercise
Dogs need exercise every day, mental and physical. Without it they cannot be the animal they were born to be. Many owners make the mistake of thinking that if they have a “big backyard” that should be good enough and they don’t need to walk their dog every day. I call this the big back yard myth. A yard size means nothing to a dog without the pack leader (you are the pack leader) there to initiate the exercise. Dogs need different amounts of exercise depending on the dog’s energy level. A medium energy level dog needs a minimum of 45 minutes of structured exercise a day. High energy dogs need even more.

2. Thinking of dogs as humans
As much as we want our dogs to be our babies, they are not humans. They have different needs than people do and if we don’t acknowledge them being dogs we are selfishly depriving them of the primal things they need to be healthy and happy.

3. Giving affection at the wrong time
Most dogs do not lack for affection. The problem is, while dogs like affection, too much at the wrong time can actually hurt them! Has your dog ever been afraid of a noise or person and you say something like “It’s okay baby, they won’t hurt you.” ? While owners have the very best of intentions they are unknowingly telling their dog to be afraid! Affection to a dog means ‘good’, ‘right’. If you pet your dog when they are scared you are saying “Good dog, that’s right, be afraid.”

4. Not having a good feeding routine
Dogs’ bodies are set up to eat at specific times. It is good for their digestive systems and their minds to eat at certain times, rather than having food in the bowl 24/7. Dogs should be hungry when they eat.

5. Projecting the wrong energy to your dog
Often when our dogs get excited and bark we shout at them. This to them is also excitement. They don’t hear your words; they hear your excited energy and it simply feeds their excitement.


For a personal in-home consultation with you and your dog, call Julie at 340-2824.