NEW YEAR SPECIAL!

Bad Behavior Good dog is running a New Years Special: With the purchase of 3 sessions or more you get the sessions for just $30. That means you'd get 3 sessions for the price of 2!

208-340-2824

K9 Good Citizen

I don't often see dogs out and about with there owners any more. Going out in public and greeting people is how your dog stays social and friendly, and also provides him with physical and mental stimulation. Owners often opt to leave their dogs at home rather than have them go along because it can be challenging to be training while you're out running errands.

Most owners don't even know about the Canine Good Citizen test through the AKC. It is a list of test a certified trainer puts your dog through and if he passes your pooch will be a certified good citizen. It can be very rewarding to work hard toward a goal and accomplish it. The following are the areas your dog will be tested on. I want to encourage all owners to start practicing, and when your dog is ready find a trainer in your area qualified to give the test.

It will be good for you, your dog, and your relationship!

AKC’s Canine Good Citizen® (CGC) Program
Training/Testing: CGC Test Items
Before taking the Canine Good Citizen test, owners will sign the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge. We believe that responsible dog ownership is a key part of the CGC concept and by signing the pledge, owners agree to take care of their dog's health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others.

After signing the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge, owners and their dogs are ready to take the CGC Test. Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test include:

Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.

Test 2: Sitting politely for petting

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.

Test 3: Appearance and grooming

This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.

Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)

This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.

Test 5: Walking through a crowd

This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.

Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place

This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.

Test 7: Coming when called

This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.

Test 8: Reaction to another dog

This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.

Test 9: Reaction to distraction

This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.

Test 10: Supervised separation

This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").

Equipment

All tests must be performed on leash. For collars, dogs should wear well-fitting buckle or slip collars made of leather, fabric, or chain. Special training collars such as pinch collars, head halters, and electronic collars are not permitted in the CGC test.

As of November 4, 2010, body harnesses may be used in the CGC test. The evaluator should check to make sure the harness is not of a type that completely restricts the dog's movement such that it could not pull or jump up if it tried.

We recognize that special training collars such as head collars and no-jump harnesses may be very useful tools for beginning dog trainers, however, we feel that dogs are ready to take the CGC test at the point at which they are transitioned to equipment that allows the evaluator to see that the dog has been trained.

The evaluator supplies a 20-foot lead for the test. The owner/handler should bring the dog's brush or comb to the test.

Encouragement

Owners/handlers may use praise and encouragement throughout the test. The owner may pet the dog between exercises. Food and treats are not permitted during testing, nor is the use of toys, squeaky toys, etc. to get the dog to do something. We recognize that food and toys may provide valuable reinforcement or encouragement during the training process but these items should not be used during the test.
Failures – Dismissals

Any dog that eliminates during testing must be marked failed. The only exception to this rule is that elimination is allowable in test Item 10, but only when test Item 10 is held outdoors.

Any dog that growls, snaps, bites, attacks, or attempts to attack a person or another dog is not a good citizen and must be dismissed from the test.

Common Mistakes (worth reposting)

Top 5 Mistakes Dog Owners Make
Bad Behavior/Good Dog
208-378-8205 208-340-2824
http://badbehaviorgooddog.blogspot.com



1. Not enough exercise
Dogs need exercise every day, mental and physical. Without it they cannot be the animal they were born to be. Many owners make the mistake of thinking that if they have a “big backyard” that should be good enough and they don’t need to walk their dog every day. I call this the big back yard myth. A yard size means nothing to a dog without the pack leader (you are the pack leader) there to initiate the exercise. Dogs need different amounts of exercise depending on the dog’s energy level. A medium energy level dog needs a minimum of 45 minutes of structured exercise a day. High energy dogs need even more.

2. Thinking of dogs as humans
As much as we want our dogs to be our babies, they are not humans. They have different needs than people do and if we don’t acknowledge them being dogs we are selfishly depriving them of the primal things they need to be healthy and happy.

3. Giving affection at the wrong time
Most dogs do not lack for affection. The problem is, while dogs like affection, too much at the wrong time can actually hurt them! Has your dog ever been afraid of a noise or person and you say something like “It’s okay baby, they won’t hurt you.” ? While owners have the very best of intentions they are unknowingly telling their dog to be afraid! Affection to a dog means ‘good’, ‘right’. If you pet your dog when they are scared you are saying “Good dog, that’s right, be afraid.”

4. Not having a good feeding routine
Dogs’ bodies are set up to eat at specific times. It is good for their digestive systems and their minds to eat at certain times, rather than having food in the bowl 24/7. Dogs should be hungry when they eat.

5. Projecting the wrong energy to your dog
Often when our dogs get excited and bark we shout at them. This to them is also excitement. They don’t hear your words; they hear your excited energy and it simply feeds their excitement.


For a personal in-home consultation with you and your dog, call Julie at 340-2824.

Dogs, Dogs, and more Dogs.

Every Sunday on my facebook page (see link right) I feature a dog from a local rescue who needs a home. This is the very last day of October which is official Adopt a Shelter Pet Month, and to celebrate I will be sharing some of the wonderful dogs in shelters all over Idaho. Please pass this along and lets see if we can't get some of them adopted! Click on each link to meet an amazing dog who needs your help!

http://www.adoptapet.com/cgi-bin/public/petsearch.cgi/pet_details?pet_id=4539117


http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/album.php?aid=297518&id=191869176188


http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=451841367219&set=a.121843677219.100397.120589807219


http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=165646040118329&set=a.101543366528597.3626.100000188025768&pid=607730&id=100000188025768


http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=171500059532927&set=a.101543366528597.3626.100000188025768&pid=650509&id=100000188025768


http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=492224401188&set=a.492224391188.299411.191869176188

Dog food: What pet owners need to know

Have you ever really thought about what you are feeding your dog? Do you trust that because there is a healthy happy looking pooch on the bag that it is providing your dog with what he needs to live a long healthy life? Did you know corn is actually very unhealthy for dogs?

When it comes to dog food, not all foods are created equal. Not feeding your pet a healthy diet can result in allergies, joint problems, heart problems, teeth problems, not to mention aging quicker and not looking or feeling as well as they should.

Here is a great sight to rate your dogs food with. Check the list and see if your food is on it. If you feed Rover anything less than a b+ it's time to switch foods.

www.dogfoodcomparison.org/dog-food-scores.html

Walk The Walk

Me walking my two dogs, and my two foster dogs. Once you have the right frame of mind you can walk a number of dogs and still maintain control.

Walking your dog correctly is so important. It sets up the base of your relationship. Do you have control of your dog on the walk, or does your dog walk you? Even if you have more than one dog you need to be able to walk with confidence and know that your dogs respect you as a stable, reliable leader.

I will often go to a clients home and ask "how much walk time does your dog get?" But I really don't need to ask. I can tell by watching. If the person is being drug by their dog I know they don't get out much. It just isn't enjoyable to walk a dog who pulls and tugs and so most people quit walking rather than fixing the problem.

One of the best ways to stop pulling is to simply stop walking as soon as the dog pulls. It makes for a slow walk, but doesn't take long to get through to the dog that they go no where if they tug. Another thing to do it switch direction as soon as they pull. They soon learn they can't anticipate where they are going so they have to be tuned into you. What you do not want to do is pull and yank on the leash. If you are frustrated your dog won't understand what you want, and remember, no matter what it is, pulling begets pulling. If you are keeping a tight tense leash you are unknowingly causing your dog to react by pulling back.

Remember: It is really about the mind set, you need to feel like the leader so your dog feels safe to follow. And don't give up. Not walking is not an option!


My daughter walking our 70lbs dog, proving it isn't size or strength that make a good leader, it's knowledge and confidence.

*Take the poll on the right to see how you and your pooch compare.

How Early Is Too Early (puppy advice)

I had a fun day today working with Boise Bully Breed Rescue at a local Petco to raise awareness and educate the public on all things dogs. One thing that was troubling to me, however, was the number of people I saw with VERY young puppies in the store. I saw a handful of well-intentioned new pet owners with little tiny pups under 8 weeks of age. This is concerning on two very serious levels.

The first, and simplest, is that puppies so young have not had their second round of shots and are therefore very susceptible to Parvo. Parvo is a HIGHLY contagious disease that affects almost exclusively puppies, but anyone or anything can carry it. It can be on your shoes, your ten year old dog, a grocery cart and many other places. It can be deadly, is always painful, and is expensive to treat. It is just not safe taking a puppy out before they have had their second round of shots. Ask anyone who has dealt with Parvo...it is very scary and you wouldn't wish it on your worst enemy.

The second, and this is what bothers me the most, is that every person I spoke to said they got their puppy at around 4-5 weeks of age from a breeder. PLEASE, please, believe me, that any breeder willing to sell you a dog before 8 weeks of age is not a person you should get a dog from. Do not walk, RUN if someone ever offers you a pup that young. No reputable breeder who knows what they are doing would ever give a pup away so young. Most of the time there are behavior issues down the road.

Why? Because the mother provides nourishment until around 4 weeks of age, then she begins to ween the pups...but her job is far from over. One person today told me their breeder told them the mother stopped nursing at 4 weeks so that's why she was selling them so early. That is a huge red flag that the "breeder" knows little to nothing about a dog's development process.
In the process of weening her pups the mom teaches them boundaries that they just don't learn fully any other way. Between 6-8 weeks they learn bite control and body language from their mother and litter mates. Let me be clear... THE MOTHER AND LITTER MATES ARE THE ONLY ONES WHO CAN TEACH A DOG THIS THE WAY NATURE INTENDED. Yes, you can do some of it with another dog or yourself, but you will NEVER be able to replace those crucial weeks fully.

I personally prefer to get my dogs through a shelter or rescue, but if you do go through a breeder make sure they meet not most, but EVERY single one of these criteria.

Reputable breeders ALWAYS:

• give their pups their first/and usually second round of shots


• allow you to meet both parents and ask questions


• ask you questions about how you'll raise the pup and where it will live (some will want to do a home inspection...that is good!)


• provide you with proof of medical exam and papers on bloodlines


• will not let you take the pup before 8 weeks, preferably 10 weeks


• have already started the puppies in socialization and potty training


• make you sign an adoption contract

If you find a breeder on craigslist or somewhere else who does not do ALL of these, they are a backyard breeder and it is buyer beware. Backyard breeders will charge less, but you WILL pay for that in vet bills and headaches down the road.

Also, NO--let me repeat, NO reputable breeder EVER sells their dogs to a pet store. And yes, pet stores will lie to you about where their cute little pups come from. Buying a dog from a pet store is one of the cruelest things you can ever do because it guarantees that dogs will continue to suffer in puppy mills.

This is a hard and harsh reality. And if you have made the mistake of adopting a pup too young, don't panic. You will likely have some problems that could have been avoided, but it doesn't mean you can't love and have a happy life with your dog. It does, however, mean that now that you know differently, it is up to you and all of us to teach others.

Exercise Exercise Exercise!!!

The first question I ask every client who calls with behavior issues is "How many minutes a day of structured exercise does your dog get?" Here are the top three answers.

1. We have a big back yard and he has a dog door.

2. We have 2 dogs who play together all the time.

3. The kids play ball with him almost every day.

Every one of these is nice...but NOT structured exercise and so does not count. When I tell them that their dog is at 0 minutes a day they are shocked.

So what is "structured exercise"? It is an activity that you start, you stop, and drains your dog physically and mentally. A daily walk MUST make up a large part of this. Your dog needs this for many reason. The simplest is to get out of his normal surroundings. Just like us, dogs get house bound. Your four walls and fenced yard get boring quickly. Dogs need to experience the outside world. Period.

Another reason is for the bonding. Your dog is relying on you and your leadership while on a walk and nothing bonds you quicker if you do it right. Which means, you need to have the walk at a heel down for this to work. And obviously the physical exercise is steady and constant on a walk, as where ball playing is amp up and then stop.

In addition to the walk, or jog if you and your dog are higher energy, you can add in obedience training, agility training, fly ball training or pulling activities. The ball playing is fun but does not require the amount of concentration that other activities do. It is like recess for kids.

How much exercise does your dog need? Well, that varies on breed, energy level age, health etc..

Most healthy dogs will need a MINIMUM of 70 minutes a day at least half of which should be walking. It seems like a lot, but you can split it up. 20 minute walk before work, 30 after dinner and two 10 minute obedience training session somewhere in between. If you have more than one person in the house it makes it even easier to split up.

Keep an exercise log because what seems like 30 minutes may actually only be 15 or 20. I have found that some dogs will even get a mental drain from simply going on a car ride and experiencing new sights, sounds and smells. I try to take my dog with me on as many errands as I can and as weather permits (don't leave a dog in a car in hot weather). It is a mental drain for a dog to wait patiently in the car while you run into the bank, or how about taking the dog into the home improvement store with you. Think about how tired you are after spending the morning running around town... you and your dog will both be ready for a nap!

If your dog is having any kind of destructive behaviors, up his exercise and you'll be amazed at the change!

Aggression Ignorance

My family and I were out walking our dogs this evening when we passed by a fence with a large dog on the other side. The dog was lunging, snarling, and throwing himself at the fence. Several of the boards were loose and one was missing from this routine behavior from the dog.

The owner of the property was out front so I mentioned to him that his fence was breaking and his dog was displaying serious fence aggression. I told him that who ever the unlucky person was walking by when the fence broke would be attacked by 100 pounds of pent up anger from his dog. The owner just laughed and said his dog was well trained and wouldn't hurt a fly, "It's just harmless noise" he said.

This really bothered me because it is this kind of ignorance that gets people killed. When an animal is displaying aggression of any kind it is not "just harmless noise". It is, in fact, a warning that you need to take action before something tragic happens. My guess is that this dog is a very sweet dog when he is with his owner and so the owner feels that he has nothing to worry about. The truth is, when the owner is gone the dog has taken the job of fiercely guarding the property line from anyone walking by. He is not getting exercised enough and is able to release his energy by overreacting to strangers.

This owner is not unlike many others out there. He simply does not want to believe that his loving family pet could be dangerous, but the truth is any dog can and will bite if not trained properly. Knowing commands and how to retrieve is not enough. Dogs, especially big dogs, have to learn the difference between a real threat and normal activity. What this owner needed to do was correct his dog at the very first sign of aggression towards something on the other side of fence and continue to work on it. His dog also needs a lot of daily physical activity so he does not release his energy in this dangerous way. Unfortunatley, simply ignoring the behavior and passing it off as harmless is going to get someone hurt.

If you see a dog showing aggression like this at a fence you need to contact animal control so they can investigate and asses the danger to the public. And, if your dog shows this kind of behavior you need to act NOW to correct it before someone gets hurt.

*Remember, there is no such thing as harmless aggression. If your dog acts aggressive do not be foolish enough to assume it's just talk with nothing behind it. And if you encounter a dog showing signs of aggression call and get some help before it is too late!

Helpful Tips For Busy Families

School is back in session and life is hectic again. There are soccer games to get to, piano lesson, teacher meetings and all the other stuff that comes with fall. The days are also getting shorter and cooler and it is all to easy to forget about the four legged family member.

Just because your schedule has picked up doesn't mean your dogs needs have lessened. He still needs walked EVERY day, and he still needs attention, and set rules to live by. Make sure that you are making time for him or you will have behavior problems and also an unhappy pooch. Here are some ideas to help you keep Fido happy and still keep up with your busy schedule.

• Soccer practice? Take the pooch. I used to run laps around the soccer field with my dog while I watched my son's team practice.


• Walk to school. This is a great way to keep your dog socialized and exercised!


• Add a pack. If you can't go for as long of walks now you can add a back pack weighted with watter bottles to make sure your dog is still getting the most out of his work out time.


• Treadmill train. If you have a treadmill train your dog to use it. It takes some patients but is likely easier than you think. Fido can get in a good walk while you get ready for the day.


• Divide it up. Make a schedule for the dogs needs. Write out who walks, who feeds, who grooms etc. Share the task so that no one person is bogged down with too much. This also ensures that each family member gets special bonding time with the pooch!

These are just a few ideas to help you meet your dogs needs in a busy world. Be creative, have fun and remember that you made a commitment to your pet. His needs don't go away just because your schedule gets full.

What is Breed Specific Legislation?

BSL are letters you may have seen around, but what do they stand for and what does it mean? BSL stands for Breed Specific Legislation. Which simply means passing laws or limitations against certain breeds of dogs. There are strong opinions on both sides of this, but coming from a Behavior Consultant point of view I'd like to offer up a few points to think about before you make up your mind as to whether BSL should be enforced in your area.

Likely the first breed you all thought of was the Pit Bull. The Pit Bull is this eras villain replacing the German Shepherd and Rottweiler in decades past. While BSL does often target Pit Bulls it is not limited to them.

Whatever your opinion on a particular breed of dog I think we put ourselves in jeopardy by assuming BSL will solve aggression problems in our society. My fear is that BSL gives people a false sense of security about who the "bad guy" is. If for instance you live in an area that bans a certain type of dog you might feel you and your children are safer and that neighborhood pets are not a threat.

The truth is that extensive testing has been done on all breeds of dogs and the tests all show one thing very clearly... ALL DOGS CAN BITE. In fact, the highest bite rate in dogs was Cocker Spaniels. It is so important that we as a society educate ourselves and our children, not on which breeds to avoid, but what actions and body language to avoid.

For example, if you saw a man walking a pit bull down the street at a nice calm pace, his dog at a heel, and on the other side of the road a Border Collie. Let's say the Border Collie is pulling on the end of the leash and ignoring his owners corrections. Which dog would you ask to pet? I tell my kids NEVER to ask to pet a dog that is not walking at a heel and responding properly to his owner...no matter the breed or size of the dog. In this case, I would feel comfortable letting my kids approach the Pit Bull as long as the owner agreed.

Dogs are always dogs before they are a specific breed. We are in danger of bites if we allow ourselves to believe that BSL makes the streets safe of aggressive dogs. Rather than watching out for a breed to avoid, watch for behavior. It is much more accurate, and the only real way to keep you and your family safe.

Avoid dogs of any breed who are

• jumping


• barking


• pulling on a leash


• not responding to owners voice


• fearful


• on a chain


• loose without an owner


• in a confined area

This way you can enjoy, and feel safe around the vast number of breeds that surround us on the street, at the park or in your neighborhood.

PlayTime

If you have more than one dog, or take your dog on play dates you know how much fun dogs have playing together. But just because they are having a great time does not mean you can let down your guard as pack leader. Even in free play they need direction from you! People are shocked how dogs can be best friends one minute and the next there is a fight. This is because the play was not supervised properly. There is a very thin line between fun and fight when it comes to playtime.

When dogs play keep it to a limited time. 5-10 minutes is about the max you want to let the play go. After that bring the dogs back down to a calm place before allowing them to play again. If the play escalates to a point where nipping or snarling are happening step in and stop it. It doesn't mean the dogs can't keep playing, but they need to come down from the intensity before they start again.

I'll let my dogs and fosters free play for an hour in the yard but I am right there keeping it from getting too intense with breaks every few minutes to have them sit, stay or lay down. This keeps them in a follower mind set even while they rough house.

Here are some things you need to step in a correct if you see during play

• Mounting


• holding another dog down for too long


• snapping


• curled lips


• continues barking


• latching on (chewing and even open mouthed around each others neck is normal but if one dog is using any force or keeping his mouth on another dog too long don't allow it.)

To break up the play and lower intensity you can just step right into them and make a noise (eht). When you have their attention have them sit and stay. Keep them in the "sit stay" with eye contact or have them "down" for a few minutes. You can focus the play by having one dog at a time fetch a ball. Another fun game to play with more than one dog is Red light/Green light. Put your dogs in a sit stay, walk 10 feet or so turn your back and say "green light" in a high excited voice. If you make your voice inviting the dogs should break the stay and come running. When they get close turn, give eye contact say red light in your firm voice while giving the hand signal for sit. When the dogs sit everyone gets a treat or praised. This is a fun way for dogs to play together in a more structured way.

*Remember to let your dogs have fun together but remain in control and playtime will be safe and fun for everyone. And when playtime is over stick to that.

Doggy Daycare

I got the chance today to do some staff training at Escape the Crate (doggy daycare and boarding) http://www.escapethecrate.com/ at 8453 W Elisa street in Boise Id. It is a great place with fun dedicated staff and some really great dogs!

If you use a doggy daycare or boarding facility there are some things you can do to help your dog be successful, and also help the daycare staff provide the best care for your pooch and others.

1. Make sure your dog is getting structured exercise with you leading him

Daycare is a great way to keep your dog from being bored while you are at work, but it can not be used for your dogs only exercise. He still needs his pack leader to lead him regularly.

2. Don't let your dog enter into the facility in an over excited state

Over excitement is setting your dog up to fail, as he will be so excited that he will not be able to control himself in a large group setting and not get the most out of his day.

3. Work at home with your dog on obsessive behaviors

A dog that is obsessing on anything (i.e. tail chasing, barking, mounting) will be a target in a large group of dogs. Dogs see this as unstable and will feel the need to correct it. Structured exercise and strong leadership at home are the best way to help your dog stop obsessing.

4. Listen to daycare staff

Often times the way your dog acts in a large group will be a wonderful way for you to know what areas you may need to work on at home. If the staff at your daycare tell you about a behavior you don't often see in your dog don't dismiss it. Use it as an opportunity to understand your dog on a deeper level.

5. Leave the facility the way you want to return

If you want your dog to be happy but relaxed next time you come to doggy daycare than make sure to take a moment for him to calm down and relax before you leave. Dogs will always come back to a place in the same frame of mind they left it, make sure it is a frame of mind you want to see again.

*For busy houses or frequent travelers doggy daycare is a great way to keep your dog busy and stimulated when you are not around, but don't forget to make it as pleasant an experience as possible. And don't let it be a substitute for good leadership and exercise at home!

Triumph Over Pity (Dex's story)

Handsome Dex ready to start his new life.









All that is left of his old life, and soon that will be no more than a scar of triumph.


I work with many rescues and see a lot of very sad abuse cases. Recently we took in a new foster for Boise Bully Breed Rescue. Dex was found in a shelter by a kind woman in Hailey Idaho. His foot had thick wire embedded deep in it. She got him to a vet and had the wire removed. To every ones shock and horror the vet said the wire had been purposely wrapped around his foot almost causing him to loose it!

What happened to Dex is very sad and hard to even imagine. Like any kind person the only thing I wanted to do with Dex was smoother him in loves and kisses and pamper him to his hearts content, however, I know that this is not really what Dex needs to overcome his past.

I often work with clients who have rescued dogs from terrible situation and they have the best of intentions, but because they do not understand dog behavior they have unintentionally keep their beloved rescue pet a victim for years after their rescue.

How? By not allowing the dog to move past his victimised state. I here things like "He is afraid of sticks because he was teased with one at 6mo old" It may seem like that is why the dog fears sticks, but the reality is the dog is afraid because the owner has never allowed him to move past his fear and continues to foster it by comforting and babying every time the fear rises.

Just like with Dex, the moment he came into my home he was no longer a victim but a survivor. I do tell his story to help educate, but ask people not to pity him. Pity will not move him forward. Instead I ask people to rejoice in his triumph and help him over come his bad beginning. Yes, Dex had a horrible past, but he is expected to sit and wait for food just like the other dogs in the house. He is expected to walk nicely with the pack, and share toys just like all the other dogs. I don't treat him differently because I don't want him to feel differently. He needs what all dogs need. Rules, boundaries and a sense of purpose. If all I did was retell his victim story, pamper him, never ask anything more of him than to be a victim he would always be a victim. He does not deserve that and neither does any other dog. He deserves to be a champion, over coming his past and making the most out of his new life.

*Remember, don't pity a rescue dog. You will keep them from healing. Instead challenge them to be the dog they were born to be by expecting the best from them as a strong pack leader!

If you are interested in adopting Dex you can call me 208-3402824

Top 5 Mistakes Dog Owners Make

1. Not enough exercise

Dogs need exercise every day, mental and physical. Without it they cannot be the animal they were born to be. Many owners make the mistake of thinking that if they have a “big backyard” that should be good enough and they don’t need to walk their dog every day. I call this the big back yard myth. A yard size means nothing to a dog without the pack leader (you are the pack leader) there to initiate the exercise. Dogs need different amounts of exercise depending on the dog’s energy level. A medium energy level dog needs a minimum of 45 minutes of structured exercise a day. High energy dogs need even more!

2. Thinking of dogs as humans

As much as we want our dogs to be our babies, they are not humans. They have different needs than people do and if we don’t acknowledge them being dogs we are selfishly depriving them of the primal things they need to be healthy and happy.

3. Giving affection at the wrong time

Most dogs do not lack for affection. The problem is, while dogs like affection, too much at the wrong time can actually hurt them! Has your dog ever been afraid of a noise or person and you say something like “It’s okay baby, they won’t hurt you.” ? While owners have the very best of intentions they are unknowingly telling their dog to be afraid! Affection to a dog means ‘good’, ‘right’. If you pet your dog when they are scared you are saying “Good dog, that’s right, be afraid.”

4. Not having a good feeding routine

Dogs’ bodies are set up to eat at specific times. It is good for their digestive systems and their minds to eat at certain times, rather than having food in the bowl 24/7. Dogs should be hungry when they eat and should have a routine of respecting the pack leader before they get their food.

5. Projecting the wrong energy to your dog

An example of this is that often when our dogs get excited and bark we shout at them. This to them is also excitement. They don’t hear your words; they hear your excited energy and it simply feeds their excitement.

For a personal in-home consultation with you and your dog, call Julie at 340-2824

Summer Safety

Now that schools out and warm weather is here there are some important things to think about to keep your pets safe this summer.





Summer Safety List

• Keep your dog out of parked cars

No more taking Fido on car trips to wait while you run into the store. Even with the windows down a dog can die in a hot car in less than 10 minutes! And in just 5 they can begin to go in to heat shock.

• Protect the paws

You may not notice how hot the side walk and black tops are getting beneath your flip-flops, but your dog sure is! Do your walks in the morning or evening to prevent damaging their paws on hot cement. Also consider some doggy foot wear if you enjoy off road paths with your dog. Goat-heads and other painful weeds could be just waiting to make their way into your pooches paw.

• Check for pests

Late spring and summer are also when parasites show up to make a home in your dogs coat. Make sure you treat your animal with a vet prescribed flea and tick repellent and always give them a good brushing after an out door adventure.

• Be ready for the 4th!

The week before and after the 4th of July are full ones for local shelters. Fireworks are foreign and scary to dogs. Many families will leave for a firework show only to come home and find their beloved pet has made it over, under, or through [!] a fence. DO NOT LEAVE ANY PET ALONE while there are fireworks going off. Remember that people set off fire works days before and days after the actual 4th of July so be ready.

• Vacation safety

If you are going on vacation without your pets this summer be sure to make accommodations for them and plan ahead. If you leave them with a friend leave several emergency contact numbers, your vets number, and a 24 hour vet number. Question the person you will leave your dog with about where your dog will sleep, play, and be when they are not at home. Check to make sure they have proper fencing to keep your dog safe and question them on their dog handling skills. It is better to be overly cautious than to come home to a missing pet.

• Watch for over heating

Dogs can over heat quickly, remember they are packing a heavy coat around. Don't leave your dog outside in the heat. Always make sure they have shade and plenty of water. Dogs only sweat slightly from their paws so panting is how they cool down. Light panting is normal for dogs in the summer, but don't let your dog get so heated they are shaking with panting. If your dog does get too hot remember they cool from the bottom up. If you need to cool your dog down fast lay them on a cool wet towel or gently wet their stomach to help cool them off.

• Be careful where you let your dog swim

Swift moving canals can look fun to your dog but the current can be too strong for them. Make sure you pick safe places for your dog to swim where they can easily get in and out of the water. Remember that as they swim they will get tired and not be as strong as they were when they first went into the water, that is the point when your dog is at risk for being swept under by a strong current. Chose places that have shallow, slow moving water rather than fast rivers or canals.

*Plan ahead for the safety of your pet this summer and you will both enjoy the season!

Kids and Dogs

I get a lot of calls about kids and dogs and how they relate to each other. They are actually very similar. Both needs rules and boundaries, both can get over excited and have a hard time calming down, and both are drawn to each other. If you have kids and dogs together in the same house it is important for the children to be accountable for following certain rules where the dogs are concerned. In this way both the children and dogs can live peacefully and respectfully together.

Here are my families rules that we all obey for the safety of our dogs and us.

(Some of our rules may be more strict than your home needs because of how many and how often we have foster dogs come through but it is a good idea to agree on a set as a family and post them for everyone to see.)

Dog Rules

• no wrestling or rough play with the dogs


• dogs need to be in their kennels before friends come over


• always use the gate when going in and out the front door


• no teasing dogs


• no playing in the back yard alone with the dogs


• stay off the floor with the dogs


• remember: no talking, touching or looking at new dogs or ours when first coming into the house.


• no excitement of fighting around the dogs

Summer Reading!

Here are some really great books to add to your summer reading list. I recommend ALL of them. They will help you understand your dog, yourself, and how to have a happy, healthy pooch!

Dogspeak-Paul McGreevy

Great book on body language of dogs and how to respond to it

The Art of Racing in the Rain- Garth Stein

This is a touching fictional novel about a clever dog named Enzo.

30 Days to A Well-Mannered Dog- Tamar Geller

Helpful trainings tips for pet owners

Be the Pack Leader- Cesar Millan

This is a wonderful all around book to understanding your dog, you and your relationship. I highly recommend you add it to your personal library!

Up and Coming

There is a lot of great dog stuff going on this summer. I wanted to let you know about a few.

Dog Boarding with Bad behavior/Good Dog I will be doing boarding for the summer! Your pooch can stay here with my family and enjoy 2 walks a day, lots of fresh air, play time, and sleeping with the family rather than in a kennel alone. If you want to board your pooch act now because space and times are limited. 208-340-2824 $18 a night

Bullys Bark in the Park- Sunday June 6th

Camels Back Park in Boise

1:00pm

There will be a family event to raise money for Boise Bully Breed Rescue. Face painting, a kissing booth, low cost vaccines available for your dog and MUCH more. Bad behavior/Good dog will be there with tips and information on dog handling and behavior. Bring the whole family and come have some fun for a good cause!

Black Dog walk- Sunday June 13

1:00pm

709 E park Blvd (Ram restaurant parking lot)

bring your dog and join in the fun in helping raise awareness for all the over looked black dogs in shelters. Any breed and color is welcome!

Does size matter?

When looking for a dog many people have a size in mind they want. I hear things like "Our yard is small so we need a small dog." Or, "Big dogs are too destructive." The truth is, size is relatively unimportant in finding a good match for your home and life style, and many people have been disappointed because they assumed smaller meant easier.

A small dog will need excises regularly just as a bigger dog. So if you are getting a Schnauzer to avoid having to walk it you are in for a big surprise! More than size, look for energy level. In every litter you will have the most energetic pup down to the least. Yes, some breeds are more high energy in general, but even among Border Collies you have high and lower energies in the pack.

Figure out what your family is. Do you have the time a commitment to spend 60 minutes before work taking the dog on a good long run? If not, that high energy playful puppy may not be the dog for you. Do you want a dog who can keep pace and hike with you on weekends? If so, than a 10 year old lab who enjoys a leisurely stroll is not the right fit. Before you decide on a size decide on an energy. Be completely honest with yourself. If you have never gotten up at 5am to go jogging before, don't assume that the moment the new dog arrives you'll be ready to do it everyday for 10 years.

Also, don't let your yard or house size fool you. A Grate Dane will often be a better apartment dog than a Jack Russell because of the different energy levels commonly associated with those breeds. And a small toy poodle can be every bit as destructive as a lab or more so!

Don't rush in. Take an "energy evaluation" of yourself and family. Research breeds, and be ready to ask for help when and if you need it. A dog is a lifetime commitment. So often I hear "We had a dog, but it didn't work out." When in reality what happened is someone didn't do their home work, and didn't have the commitment to making it work. Shelters are full of these dogs. Please don't add one more.

Understanding your dogs language

It is important to know what your dog is saying when he isn't saying anything! Many people say things like "the bite came out of no where" when really they just missed the signs. The signs can be subtle or very clear, you have to be on the look out for them to know how a dog is going to react to you or others.



This is relaxed submission. The dog is content in his place within the pack and is in a good mind set. He is saying "I'm happy and secure"





This is the play stance. Anyone who has been around a puppy knows this one. It says, "I'm about to be rough, but it's all in fun, I'm not serious."







This is fear. Notice the tail tucked way under and the back arched. This kind of fear settles after just a few minutes as long as the dog does not feel pressured. If a dog is ever making this move, give him some space, don't touch him or make eye contact. He needs a few minutes to let his brain relax. When he starts sniffing and the back and tail straighten he is beginning to relax, but still go slow.



This is fear aggression. The lips are very curled and this look says "I don't want a fight, but I'm scared" If you advance on this dog you will get bit! He needs to know you are not interested in him to feel safe. No touching this dog, talking, or even looking at. Pretend he does not exist and he will eventually calm down.






This is prey drive. Head low, paw up. This dog is ready to bounce on some kind of prey, either a cat, or ball or something that will give chase. If your dog is making this move to something you don't want chased your only shot is distraction. Make a loud, startling noise to get his attention. Saying his name or rushing at him will only speed up the inevitable.


This is dominance. Notice the head over top and the tail high and straight. As long as the dog is doing this to a playmate who responds with submission it is not a problem. But, never let a dog stand this way over your or a child!


*These are just a few of the hundreds of subtle things our dogs body will do to tell us what is going on in their mind. Learning your dogs body language is the best way to prevent unwanted behavior. I would suggest checking a book out at your local library and becoming an expert on your dogs unspoken language because you dog is talking ALL the time. Learn what he is saying and you'll have a deeper healthier connection with your friend, and also a mental safety net to protect your self from dogs you don't know!

The Joys of Fostering

{My kids teaching one of our fosters how to snuggle and show love...this is why we do it!}


Our home had an exciting weekend. One of our foster dogs was adopted to a nice family and another one came in. Fostering can be such a fun and wonderful experience. For one thing, you are helping save a dogs life! Shelters and rescues all over the country would be forced to put even more dogs down than they do now if not for the thousands of homes who step forward to foster. Obviously fostering is a benefit to the animal, but what are the benefits to you and your family?

*Fostering gives you a sense of purpose and excitement for helping.


*Fostering teaches children in the home about service and respect for all living things.


*Fostering is a great way to find a forever friend!


*Fostering is very good for your dog to stay social and well balanced, and also teach good house manners to the foster dog.


*Foster parents are often given lots of help/advice from the shelter or rescue they foster through that can be used for your dog as well!


*Fostering is FUN! You can be a home for many different breeds, shapes and sizes without having to make a life long commitment to them.



Our family has loved playing the foster roll, and while you may not want to foster as often as we do, I encourage you to consider it. Yes, you do get attached, and some times there are tears when your foster finds a home, but everyone in the house will know that they brought joy to a dog in need and were there to help when it mattered most.



How can you get started? Contact your local shelter, or a rescue near you. Most will train you and provide you with the things you'll need such as, leash, crate and food. The links on this page (see right) are a good place to get started looking for information.



*Remember, there is never enough space to go around in rescues and shelters. The more foster families there are the more lives will be saved. Please consider the benefits of fostering today.

Pet Shops

(This is where those pet shop puppies come from. It's legal, but that does not make it right. The mother will NEVER make it out alive.)

We have all been to the mall and fallen in love with the doggy in the window. What we don't see is that behind the sweet face is a mother dog who has no chance at happiness, home, or even comfort! The sad fact is that every time a dog leaves a pet store it condemns another dog to a life of torture and pain.

Pet stores will tell you they don't get their dogs from puppy mills. But they don't define puppy mills either. In this country puppy mills are legal as long as they meet certain standards, and I promise you, those standards are not high. You would NEVER allow your dog to be kept the way it is legal to keep these "producing" dogs.

Do not be fooled, that puppy in your arms was not born on someones hearth with a nice fire blazing behind it. It was born in a cage , to a mother who gets ZERO human interactions, it was taken from it's mother and litter mates before 8 weeks of age, manhandled, shipped and dropped into your local pet store. As cute as he is, he will suffer health issues, and or mental issues because of the conditions he came from. And, the mother will never get out. When she can no longer have pups she'll be killed and thrown in the dumpster. No one will grieve for her, she will have had dozens of litters, be in horrible shape, and die without ever having a name.

The best thing that could happen for theses dogs is that NO ONE buys that little puppy in the window. If tomorrow morning the sun came up and suddenly every person in America said No to getting a pet shop puppy there would be no market any longer and thousands of dogs would be spared a life of unbelievable suffering.

*Please remember, no pet store is going to tell you the conditions their dogs come from. Some will even lie and paint you a nice picture of a family farm somewhere with children and dogs running together in peace. IT IS A LIE. Any dog from a pet store came from a puppy mill. It may be a legal puppy mill, but it is still a place of suffering and pain. Please, don't buy that cute face. You aren't saving him, you are condemning hundreds more.

Dog Greetings

(Notice the dogs' tail position in the picture. The dominant dog will always have a higher tail)

One thing I do a lot in my job is dog greetings. There is a right way for dogs to greet and a wrong way. The wrong way is something you'll see at the dog park all the time. Two dogs at the end of a tight leash nose to nose. This is a recipe for disaster. To start with, dogs should NEVER meet face to face. And, you should never keep any tension on the leash when two dogs are greeting (this will cause aggression).

When dogs meet it should be nose to butt. If the dogs don't do it on their own you can turn one dog so that the other can sniff its backside, then switch. Before I ever let dogs sniff I like to walk them next to each other first. The walk gives them a chance to be close, pick up on the others smell, but have a focus too. Once the dogs are walking calmly near each other than I do the nose to rear introductions. When dogs great via the backside there will not be a fight. Only face to face introductions cause fighting.

*Remember, when introducing dogs stay calm. Dogs will sense if you are nervous and assume that the other dog is the cause and there for a threat. Keep the leash loose so as not to send signals to your dog that you are stressed. Walk dogs next to each other before allowing them close enough to sniff. When it's time to sniff make sure it is nose to butt not nose to nose.

Weekend Visitor

My husband jokes that our house has a revolving doggy door because so many dogs come through here. It is more truth than joke, and this weekend was no different. Saturday morning I brought home a APBT mix, Moo, who needed a safe harbor for a few nights until a permanent foster was found.

Bringing Moo in brought the house up to 3 dogs, 2 cats, and 2 chickens. Not to mention the humans! That is a lot of creatures for a small city lot, but it was a good reminder about the importance of set rules in the house. Adding in a new comer goes quite smoothly if the whole pack already follows a good routine and has clear boundaries. What could have been a weekend of headaches and chaos was actually very pleasant and fun because each pack member knew his or her role and what was expected.

Moo is a laid back, easy going guy, who is available for adoption through Boise Bully Breed Rescue. To find out more about him you can contact Cathleen at 208-713-1818.

Door Chargers

We have all been to someone's house who has one or more door chargers. There is nothing worse than being greeted by an overexcited dog who is pushing his head out the door to jump all over you. What comes next is an embarrassed, frustrated owner grabbing the dogs collar, shouting, and engaging in a tug-o-war with their dog. And, it never works.

Believe it or not, this annoying habit is one of the easiest to fix. First of all, the owner has to stop playing the game. That is what it is to your dog. He barks and charges, you pull and yell and eventually a new person comes in and gives lots of loving to the dog...what could be more fun?!

I went to a clients house once who wanted help with their small dog barking like crazy when the door bell rang. When I got their, I of course, had to ring the bell. What I heard on the other side of the door was "MOM! THE DOOR!" Followed by barking, running, feet, and then when the young girl in the house got to the door I heard her shouting (in a cute little girl voice) "NO, NO, NO, NO!" at the barking Bichon. I had to smile.

I told the owner that the problem wasn't her dog...It was her daughter! When the door rang her 7 year old was excited, running to greet who ever it might be, shouting at the top of her lungs. The dog was simply doing what the he thought the pack did when the doorbell rang. And when the little girl would shout NO over and over, he thought to himself "Yes, we all bark at the door"

I taught the family how to learn to freeze when the doorbell rang. Stop, take 3 deep breaths, then slowly walk to the door. Of course by this time their dog was already their barking, that's okay, I said. Just stand in front of the dog, back to the door, calmly make one sound (quiet, or eht, or whatever you want) Hold up your hand and wait for the dog to calm down. The door should never open until your dog is calm! Every time you open it when he is barking you are telling him "good boy, do it again next time"

Own the space around the door and do not allow them in it. My dog will indeed bark when the bell rings. I'm okay with this. She hears better than I and it has become her job to alert us when a guest is there...but, when I get to the door her job is done. I say "Place" and she goes about 5 feet away and sits next to the couch. I greet my guests and when they are in the door I will give Dolly a nod that she can calmly come to greet as well. A dog greeting should never include jumping, and if you wait to introduce until you pooch has calmed down they will be less likely to jump. In my home tail wagging and sniffing is the proper way to say hello. (you may have to remind young visitors of this rule, as children tend to want to get excited and start immediately playing with the dog).

After my visit with the barking Bichon, the dog had figured it out... it took a bit longer for the young girl to remember that calm is how we go to the door.

*Remember, teach everyone in the home not to get excited by the doorbell. Claim your space around the door and don't reward a barking dog by opening it when he's excited. If you need to, put a sign on the door that says, "Dog training, we will be with you shortly" Your guest will thank you, and your home will be much more peaceful.

Teething and Chewing!

Two things that are perfectly natural, but can really annoy a dog owner. Our 10 month old foster dog is getting her very last set of teeth and is in full chew mode. In order to get through this puppy time it is important to remember not to take chewing personally, keep things picked up, and TOYS, TOYS, TOYS!

If you don't give your pup things to chew he'll find them on his own. Variety is the key here. Soft toys, rope toys, plastic toys, even wood dowels can feel good on sore gums. I learned a nice trick when my Border Collie was teething, and that is to cut apples in half and freeze them. Not only do they get to chew, but the cold helps ease discomfort.

*Remember to keep a very close eye on your dog. When those teeth start hurting they will go for the closet thing they can get in their mouth, make sure it's one of their toys and you won't be so stressed. Keep things you want safe picked up, and talk to your vet about gels that can help relieve their gum discomfort. And, if you don't want to deal with the chewing phase...DON'T GET A PUPPY. It's not if your puppy will chew, it's when.

Signs Of Abuse

As many homes and families as there are that love and cherish their pets, there are also homes and families who treat their pets quite badly. It is up to all of us to be on the look out for injured or abused animals. The shelter in your area likely has a number to report cruelty or abuse. I like to have it programed into my phone so that if I am ever out and about and see something, I can quickly call and report it without having to search for the number.



You can also go to ASPCA http://www.fightcruelty.org/ to learn of signs to be on the look out for. Here are a few:



Signs of physical abuse



Collar so tight it has caused neck irritation or wounds


Open wounds, or untreated injuries


Untreated skin conditions (look for loss of hair, scaly skin, large rashes etc.)


Extreme thinness


Fur infested with fleas ticks or other parasites


Weakness, limping, or inability to walk or stand



Environmental Signs


Pets tied up for long periods of time without adequate food or water


Pets kept outside without shelter to escape the elements


Pets kept in an area littered with feces or other harmful elements


Pets over crowded in kennels or homes


*Remember that if you see an animal in a bad situation the only chance he has may be you. Most of the time animals are allowed to be abused because no one wanted to be the one to call. These animals are pets to our neighbors, relatives or friends and it is not always easy to make that call, but you can remain anonymous and you may save a life! Please stand up for those creatures without a voice.

The first 24 hours

I have already written about how important the first 24 hours are when you bring home a new dog. (Please read "Bringing home a new dog" for a refresher) But, I got a call last night about a recently adopted dog. The dog had only been in his new home for three hours and the new owners had already changed their mind about him. Sadly, this is common.

The first 24 hours you have with your dog are arguably the most crucial. Remember, your new dog does not yet know this is his new pack, they do not know the rules, they do not even realize this house is their house. Many times people get a "house trained" dog, and the first thing the dog does is pee on their carpet. It is not that the dog isn't house broke, it is simply that they are not trained to your house.

When you get a new dog you must follow certain steps. 1. The leash! never bring a new dog into your car or house without the leash. It gives them guidance, shows them rules, and makes them feel secure.

2.Do NOT let them have free roam of your house. It is confusing to them. When a new dog comes into a pack they are on high alert to learn the rules and their place. If you do not relay those rules in a way they understand how can you fault them for not knowing? Keep them on leash in the house, and allow them to explore only what you say they can. This teaches them that they are the follower in this new pack and you are the leader. You can show them where the bathroom spot is, what toys are okay to play with, and how much excitement is allowed in the home.

Dogs are a sponge the first 24 hours. They are hard wired to be alert to the rules of the pack they are in. Correct the dog with a sound or a tug on the leash any time they go to do something that is not allowed in your pack. It is not mean or cruel. You are not hitting or yelling at them. You are just saying "This is my pack, follow my rules." This is what makes a dog feel secure.

3. Save the snuggles. This is so important. We all want to love on our new pet, but first your dog has to learn to respect you. While they may respond to lots of petting and attention you aren't helping them transition into your pack. The pack leader DOES NOT give affection first. In the wild when a dog is following the rules, showing respect, and approaching the pack leader, only then will the alpha return with affection. This rule is the hardest to follow but remember it is for the dog's benefit. He needs to know where he fits and what role he plays in your home. Love and affection does not make a dog feel safe. Rules and boundaries do.

4. Don't expect perfection. Even the most well behaved dog on earth will not be perfect 100% of the time. Dogs are not lovely floor statues. You will make mistakes and so will they. Be patient. If your dog has done something you don't like ask yourself "Was I communicating with him in a way he understands? How can I do it differently next time?"

*Remember, a dog is only as strong as the pack it goes into.

Dogs and Allergies

With spring in the air many dogs sufferer from allergies just like we humans do. Here is an article I found that gives some good information about recognizing an allergy in your dog, and what to do about it. Make sure you always check with a vet before doing any kind of home remedy.

www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/medical/canine-allergies.html

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DIGGING!

I get a lot of calls and questions about dogs digging in the back yard. Honestly, these are my least favorite calls because I can tell an owner exactly how to fix the problem but most of the time they won't. Most owners already know why their dog is digging and how to stop it, but they are hoping I will have some magic wand that will stop the digging but not require them to change their routine. I don't have such a wand.

Dogs dig for only two reasons, and often it is a combination of both. 1) The dog is bored...plain and simple 2) the dog needs to relieve stress

I know the moment I get a "HELP MY DOG IS DESTROYING MY YARD" call that the dog is not going on a daily brisk walk. I also know that the dog is spending large amounts of time alone in the yard. Clients often tell me that they have a "big backyard", when I ask how much exercise their dog gets. I call this the "big backyard myth". You may have 5 acres or you may have .5, it doesn't matter to your dog. Unless you are back there instigating play your dog could care less how big your yard is. Dogs alone get bored. Period.

Think of it like this, in the wild dogs are never alone. They are always with the pack. If they are alone they feel anxious and vulnerable because the pack is their protection. They don't understand that you built a nice strong fence. They still hear dogs down the street, loud trucks, cars back- firing, and they are alone and vulnerable. This is also why dogs bark non stop when left in a back yard alone.

When I tell my clients how to fix the problem they always hesitate. Why? Because they know that this is going to require a change from them, not the dog. If your dog digs up your yard don't leave him in it. Plain and simple. Get up every morning and take him for a nice long walk before he eats. He will have drained his energy and be ready for a few hours of rest. If you have to go to work you can put him in a crate and feel secure that he will be tired and ready for a nap while you’re gone. When you get home another walk and some play time in the back yard.

I don't care what kind of dog you have; it needs at least 30 minutes of structured activity a day. And that is for a low energy dog! High energy will need 60+ minutes a day. What is structured activity? Walking is number one! It is how your dog bonds with you as leader, drains physical and mental energy, and feels a sense of purpose. Structured play is another good activity but is used WITH a walk, not in place. Fetch, frisbee, find it, these are all good game you can play with your dog, and you can intensify those games by making them harder. Make your dog sit and wait before you throw the ball, or do a trick to get it thrown. Make an obstacle course in your back yard and teach your dog to go through it. Dogs love games and the ideas are endless.

I recently had a Heeler mix as a foster and I did not want to leave my Border Collie and him alone out back to make trouble, but when I had to clean house or get ready I designed a game they could play without me to keep them busy. I made a treasure hunt out of our yard. I had both dogs lay and wait in the middle of the yard while I hid pork rinds all over! (The waiting is also a good energy drain) I would hide at least 30-40 pieces of pork rind under bushes, up on chairs, in the grass, even on top of the play set. When I was done I told the dogs to "find it" and I had a good 20 minutes to spend in the house doing what I needed to do, confident the dogs were engaged.

*Remember, if your dog is destroying your yard it is YOU who needs to change, not the dog. You are not meeting all your dogs’ needs. Add in more exercise, structured play, and supervision and you won't have holes. Dogs in the wild dig for purpose. They don't just dig to dig. A big backyard and lots of toys means nothing to a dog if you are not there to engage him.